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Chiang Mai
This Rose of the North is the nation's second-largest city
(pop. 300,000) and has most of Bangkok's amenities (including excellent food and
accommodations). It's also increasingly making a name for itself in the arts,
especially accessories of modern design. But it's refreshingly cooler and doesn't
have the quicker pace, the traffic jams and the pollution (although the big-city
problems are rapidly catching up). The city is located in the hilly Golden Triangle,
the region where much of the world's opium is grown. Chiang
Mai is an ancient city (it was once the capital of an independent kingdom), and
the moat around the original town is still intact. There are several old and interesting
wats (temples), among them Wat Suan Dawk (with an adjoining handicraft shop),
Wat Chiang Man and Wat Phra Singh. The National Museum and the Tribal Research
Center at Chiang Mai University also merit a visit. The
city's sights can be seen in a day, but most people use the town as a jumping-off
point for exploring the region. Several hill tribes live in the area, and trekkers
can visit tribal villages. If
you aren't taking a trek, visit the night market to watch the local hill-tribe
members buying and selling. If you're looking for a day trip, go see the elephants
being trained at the Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang, 62 mi/100 km to
the southeast (buses leave every 20 minutes for the two-hour trip). This village
also has interesting blue and white pottery and an old fortress temple, Wat Lampang
Luang. Other
day trip possibilities include Lamphun, 16 mi/26 km south of Chiang Mai (to see
Wat Chama Devi, which has 60 Buddhas standing in niches on the outside of the
structure) and Baw Sang (which has tours of its lacquerware, textile, bronze,
umbrella and jade factories). The road to Baw Sang passes handicraft factories
and shops selling wood carvings, ceramics and silverware. For another driving
excursion, go 12 mi/20 km northwest of Chiang Mai to Wat Phathad (on Doi Suthep
Mountain), another 3 mi/5 km to Phuping Palace (the royal family's winter residence),
then another 2 mi/3 km to a Meo village. Another popular excursion (with Thais
as well as visitors) is to go by car to the Doi Inthanon National Park. The park
contains waterfalls, hiking trails, pretty scenery and Thailand's tallest mountain,
the park's namesake.
We also enjoyed Mae Sai, the northernmost point
in Thailand, a four-hour bus journey from Chiang Mai. There are wonderful markets,
including a puppet market, with a good selection of hill-tribe crafts from both
Thailand and Myanmar. Mae Sai is also the import point for Myanmar's rubies and
sapphires. The gem market, where you can watch the bidding on imported stones,
is downtown, across the street from the police station. If time permits, cross
the border into Myanmar for a day or two. (Check with your embassy to make sure
the border is safe before going.) If
you aren't trekking or taking more than one day trip, we think two nights for
Chiang Mai should be about right. 440 mi/710 km north of Bangkok.
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| | Chiang
Mai-Area Treks
A popular activity for energetic travelers is to trek the
Golden Triangle, a region around Chiang Mai where the borders of Thailand, Laos
and Myanmar (Burma) meet. The area is remote and roads are scarce, so the most
practical way to see the hill-tribe people, their villages and their opium fields
is to walk, or trek. The organized treks usually last four nights, stopping in
a different village each night. An elephant ride and river rafting are often included
in the price (keep your camera in a waterproof pouch, just in case it tumbles
overboard). There
are several risks that must be weighed before you decide to join a trek into the
Golden Triangle. Among the horror stories we've heard from trekkers are the following:
They were robbed by armed bandits, their guides got lost, their guides turned
out to be armed bandits, the tribesmen greeted them with postcards and trinkets
for sale, the trekkers got sick from smoking opium, their guides couldn't tell
them anything about the area, and they walked for 12 hours a day and were too
exhausted to enjoy anything. This is not to say that the vast majority of trekkers
don't have a fantastic time - our five-day sojourn into the hill-tribe country
was the highlight of our trip to Thailand. But you should choose your trekking
group with great care. Travelers
who trek as part of a tour organized by a reputable operator will reduce their
risks substantially. If you're traveling independently, your best bet is to talk
to people who have recently finished trekking. If they had a good time, find out
who took them. If possible, find a guide who speaks the tribal languages (as well
as English), who leads tours through areas where no one else treks and who doesn't
take the same route all the time. The emphasis should be on visiting the tribes,
not on trying to see how far you can walk in a day. Travelers
with even more adventurous tastes and a zeal for independence should head for
Mae Hong Son, Soppong, Mae Sot and other towns along the Myanmar border. Local
guides can be hired to take you to remote hill-tribe communities that are rarely
visited. (Check with your embassy to make sure that stretch of the border is safe
before going there.)
Fang
This town is really just a transit point for those taking the boat ride down the
Kok River to Chiang Rai (from Fang, it's only a couple of miles to Tha Ton, where
the boats leave). This excursion is only for the adventurous, as the passengers
frequently end up soaked and the boats are sometimes unreliable (ours broke down
twice). Still, the five-hour trip passes some interesting villages and can be
an exhilarating ride. After the trip, there's usually an overnight in Chiang Rai,
which has an interesting museum devoted to opium. 100 mi/160 km north of Chiang
Mai.
Hat
Yai
Hat Yai is a bustling commercial area with several beaches frequented
mostly by Thais. The town also has a slew of massage parlors, but they're basically
the same as the massage parlors in Bangkok. Otherwise, it holds little of interest.
In the surrounding area, though, there is pleasant mountain scenery and waterfalls
(Ton Nga Chang, about two hours away by car, is the biggest waterfall in southern
Thailand). There's also a gigantic reclining Buddha a few miles west of town.
Day trips can also be made to Songkhla. 150 mi/240 km southeast of Phuket. | |
| | Hua
Hin
A popular international beach resort 90 years ago, Hua Hin today is
a somewhat quieter place frequented mainly by Thais. It has moved upscale - the
town now boasts good restaurants, new hotels and a fine golf course. And even
if you don't stay there, do stop by and see the colonial-era Railway Hotel, now
called the Hotel Sofitel Central Hua Hin. You might have seen it in the film The
Killing Fields, when it played the part of the Hotel Le Phnom. 140 mi/225 km south
of Bangkok.
Kanchanaburi
Visitors may not have heard of this city, but it's likely they know about the
nearby bridge over the River Kwai. Many Allied prisoners perished during World
War II building the infamous Death Railway. The bridge itself is very unassuming
- it's still used occasionally by local train traffic. Visit the nearby museum,
which chronicles life in the POW camps and the history of the railroad's construction
(there is even a simulated Allied bombardment). Also take a walk through the immaculately
maintained Allied War Cemetery, where you'll find the graves of more than 8,000
POWs who died working on the bridge and railway for the Japanese Army. It's a
very moving experience. Kanchanaburi can be seen as a day trip from Bangkok, but
we prefer to overnight in Kanchanaburi, especially if a side trip to the temple
at Nakhon Pathom is included. If
you're spending a couple of nights in Kanchanaburi, consider taking a day trip
to Erawan National Park. Easily reached by bus, the park sits in the middle of
thick jungle and contains a series of small falls descending a hill and flowing
into a series of pools. A hiking trail tracks the falls up the hillside. A swim
in the cold, clear pools is a delightful antidote to the thick tropical heat.
Boat trips up the River Kwai to see caves and teak forests are also possible.
Plan two nights in Kanchanaburi, if time permits. 75 mi/120 km northwest of Bangkok.
Khao Yai National
Park
This huge park offers great hiking, elephant rides and many waterfalls.
At night, there are viewing trips for deer, monkeys and (rarely seen) tigers and
bears. People who make the trip to the park from Bangkok keep this place busy
on the weekends. 120 mi/200 km northeast of Bangkok. Koh
Chang
Off Thailand's southeastern coast, Koh Chang is the country's second-largest
island, after Phuket. The Koh Chang National Marine Park surrounds most of Koh
Chang, as well as several nearby islands. (Koh means "island" and is
pronounced go.) It is supposedly a national park, but tourism development is changing
the coastline, and on the south shore, fish farms are encroaching on the mangroves.
Yet it retains two fishing villages that are interesting, although the crowds
are thickening. A new airport in Trat (Koh Chang is a 30-minute ferry crossing
from there) is likely to spur more arrivals. So far, however, the interior is
still choked by a primeval and impenetrable rain forest. 140 mi/225 km southeast
of Bangkok. Koh
Lanta
As a late arrival on the tourism market, Koh Lanta is still relatively
low-key. It is also beautiful, with dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches, and
it feels welcoming - local families run many of the tourist businesses. The east
coast has a number of tourist developments and can get crowded in the high season.
But the west coast - where long silken beaches are found - is virtually deserted.
You will find good diving and snorkeling, and in the center of the island, there
is a spooky system of extensive caves (with stalactites and rock formations, and
where many bats make their home) . There also are some waterfalls. Koh Lanta is
reached by ferry from Krabi and Koh Phi Phi and Phuket. In the low season, services
are scaled down and take longer. Koh Lanta is 55 mi/88 km southeast of Phuket.
Koh Pha-Ngan
This island just north of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand is being developed
for tourism, though it lags a few years behind Koh Samui or Phuket - it's actually
still possible to chance upon a deserted beach there. It's something of a backpacker
hangout, and the age of most visitors is under 30. Reef snorkeling is popular,
and you can make a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park for more snorkeling
and relaxation amid beautiful islets. On the northeast end of the island, Bottle
Beach offers a quiet place to stay and opportunities to trek to a beautiful waterfall.
On the south part of the island, things can get quite a bit more crowded - every
month brings a full-moon festival and thousands of visitors. 280 mi/450 km south
of Bangkok. Koh
Samui
One of Thailand's early tourist developments, Koh Samui has largely
been invaded by visitors flying in for a week of sun and sea. In the two main
towns, particularly Chawaeng, clubs and bars and large hotels have sprouted up.
Other parts of the island are quieter and more pleasant. When we first wrote about
Koh Samui in the mid-1980s, we predicted that the building of an airport on the
island would forever change its character - and not for the better. Well, Samui
has its airport, and though there have been some significant changes, Samui still
has lovely clean beaches, water that's a magical blue-green color and an idyllic
atmosphere - it's just that there are now three to four times as many people enjoying
it as before.
Those
who aren't interested in the newer hotels can still find the "hut-els"
along the shores of the various beaches. This traditional spartan lodging ranges
from thatched-roof huts with nothing more than a built-in platform bed to slightly
bigger thatched huts with showers and Asian-style toilets (two footrests and a
hole in the floor). As for the beaches, we still like Chaweng beach (though it's
the most crowded), especially for the variety of nearby restaurants. If you're
looking for a quieter bit of sand, try Choeng Mon beach or Big Buddha beach. When
it gets too hot on the beach, just find a hammock in the shade of a seaside grove
of coconut palms and watch the fishing boats float by. Or rent a bicycle or motorcycle
(a paved road circles the island). Or follow one of the hiking paths that lead
inland to waterfalls. Look for the handsome Buddha attached to a temple at one
end of the island. You can also dive the reefs off neighboring islands. An interesting
side trip is a daylong cruise to the Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park
is a series of beautiful tropical isles with interesting rock formations and coral
reefs; the snorkeling there is excellent. To get to Koh Samui, either fly from
Bangkok or Phuket or take the bus (about an 11-hour ride) or train (slightly faster)
from Bangkok to Surat Thani, then catch a ferry for a two-hour ride to the island.
295 mi/475 km south of Bangkok.
Krabi
Known for its "Graveyard of Shells" (fossil beds near the sea), Krabi
also has nice beaches and an interesting botanical garden. The beaches in Krabi
are crowded in winter, as are the beautiful nearby Phi Phi Islands (Phi Phi Don
and Phi Phi Leh), about 40 mi/60 km off the coast. The Phi Phis are being developed
for tourism but, for the moment, remain lovely: White-sand beaches ring the islands,
and green cliffs rise from the clear green water. There are no accommodations
on Phi Phi Leh and no cars on either island. Phi
Phi Don is a popular hangout for the yachting crowd, but it's still an enjoyable
place to be because of the good food and cheap bungalows. Have a water-buffalo
steak and dive the reefs - although some have been destroyed, there are some unspoiled
areas remaining. Phi Phi Leh has some interesting caves worth exploring. The caves,
many of which contain ancient paintings, are home to sea swallows. Krabi is 40
mi/65 km northeast of Phuket.
Lop
Buri
Inhabited since the sixth century, Lop Buri has an 11th-century Hindu
temple and excellent Khmer architecture from the 12th century. The town itself
is pleasant but doesn't really have much to offer. Do stop in the market to see
the temple (home to several dozen monkeys). Everything can be seen in a few hours,
so if you're traveling by train, try to arrange it so you won't have to stay overnight.
95 mi/155 km north of Bangkok. Nakhon
Pathom
Nakhon Pathom's main attraction is the impressive Phra Prathom
Chedi - the tallest and largest Buddhist monument in Thailand. It marks the spot
where Buddhism was introduced to Thailand nearly 2,300 years ago. The temple's
foundation was laid in AD 500, and though the present structure is much more recent,
it retains a charming ancient atmosphere - the roof is a gold-colored spiral reminiscent
of a handbell. Inside there's an engrossing collection of ancient Thai art. Allow
at least an hour to tour the temple. If you are traveling from Bangkok, stop by
the Buddha Monthon - it's one of the loveliest outdoor Buddha statues in Thailand.
40 mi/60 km south of Bangkok. Nakhon
Si Thammarat
An ancient town, Nakhon Si Thammarat (pop. 102,000) dates
to the seventh-century Srivijayan period. Visit Wat Mahathat and a small but interesting
museum devoted to the Srivijayan period. There are beaches nearby, and it's a
nice place to walk around. 375 mi/600 km south of Bangkok.
Nong
Khai
Just downriver from Vientiane, the capital of Laos, this Mekong River
town is a popular transit point for travelers. It also has emerged as an attractive
option in its own right - there is a fantastic sculpture park of Hindu deities
and Buddha images (created by a monk in the 16th century), and the town itself
has a quaint riverside atmosphere, an idyllic place for a rest. If you're interested
in crossing the border (a bridge allows easy access), you can purchase a visa
at the bridge, at the Laotian consulate in Bangkok, or at one of the local guesthouses
(visas arranged by guesthouses usually cost a bit more). 310 mi/500 km north of
Bangkok. Pattaya
On the Gulf of Thailand, the resort of Pattaya was developed in 1968 and has evolved
into a major tourist destination. Pattaya attracts more visitors than anywhere
else in Thailand, save Bangkok. Those who haven't been there in the past 20 years
will hardly recognize this 5-mi-/8-km-long beach. Though some of the newer properties
are stunning, we think construction has gotten out of hand - too many new hotels
and apartments line the shore now. Because of sewage runoff, the main beach along
the strip is periodically unsuitable for swimming, but outlying beach areas are
still OK for swimming and other watersports. What is euphemistically called bachelor
nightlife - and more graphically acknowledged as sex tourism - is the main attraction
for some visitors. We recommend avoiding the place - there are many other beach
areas that are much nicer than Pattaya.
If
you do decide to go there, take the glass-bottomed boat to see the coral off the
nearby island of Koh Laan. Koh Lin and Ko Pai (both islands are about an hour's
boat ride away) also offer good diving. Jomtien Beach, 4 mi/6 km away, is excellent,
although it, too, has experienced some growing pains (too many condominiums for
our taste). Mini Siam, on Pattaya's outskirts, has more than 100 miniatures of
Thailand's major sights, and a nice excursion can be made to the Nong Nooch Orchid
Wonderland, a 500-acre/200-hectare private garden full of beautiful orchids and
rare palm trees. Cultural shows are also staged there. Transportation to Pattaya
is by public bus and train only (hydrofoil service has been suspended). 100 mi/160
km south of Bangkok. Phang-Nga
Bay
Beautiful limestone cliffs and huge rock outcroppings rise out of
the water at Phang-Nga Bay (pronounced PANG-ah). This scenic part of the Isthmus
of Kra is reached by either boat or bus. Also in the area are Koh Panyi (a village
on stilts), caves (Ruesnee Suwan and Suwanakhuka) and Koh Pingkan (an island in
the bay - you might recognize it from the movie The Man With the Golden Gun).
Be sure to take a boat ride through the area (the boat pier is about 3 mi/5 km
from town) - it's reminiscent of China's Li River. Day tours, sometimes called
the James Bond Island Tour, are available through several Phuket hotels. The tours
are definitely worthwhile, as this is some of the most spectacular coastal scenery
in Thailand. 25 mi/40 km north of Phuket.
Phetchaburi
The neoclassical King Mongkut Palace is the main draw of Phetchaburi. Pay particular
attention to the colonnaded arcades and the splendid view of the valley and town.
The region is full of limestone caves with Buddhist shrines, including the fascinating
Khao Luang, which has statues lit by sunlight filtering through a hole in the
cave's ceiling. 100 mi/160 km south of Bangkok. Phimai
Phimai has a large and stunning 12th-century Khmer shrine complex. The shrine
is an architectural cousin of Cambodia's Angor Wat (in fact, a road once connected
the two). Allow one to two hours to investigate it. 195 mi/310 km northeast of
Bangkok. Phitsanulok
Thousands of people go to this ancient capital each year to see the bronze Phra
Buddha Shinnarat (14th century), one of the most important Buddha images in the
country. The town also has an interesting folk museum. 215 mi/345 km north of
Bangkok.
Phuket
Thailand's largest island (360 sq mi/930 sq km - about the size of Singapore)
is the jewel of the Andaman Sea. Phuket (pronounced poo-KET) is well-known as
the site of Patong Beach, a popular tropical beach resort. It's justifiably popular:
Patong is less congested than Pattaya and has a wider variety of other attractions
nearby. But
Phuket has, in our opinion, begun to feel the effects of overdevelopment: It's
crowded in places, and the dumping of raw sewage into the sea spoils more and
more beaches. The overfished waters no longer provide good catches. Things had
been going downhill for a while until the government launched a belated cleanup
campaign in 2003 (in time for an APEC summit conference). The island also underwent
an effort to move upmarket. The result has been the addition of some excellent
upscale resorts. People who are seeing Phuket for the first time will probably
be impressed with the island's beauty and the opulence of some of the hotels and
resorts. Phuket's restaurants are excellent, and there are still plenty of beaches
for snorkeling and other watersports. There is also a wide variety of nonbeach
activities. Possibilities include tours of coconut and rubber plantations, Buddhist
temples, batik factories, a cultured-pearl farm, a crocodile farm, the Marine
Biological Research Center (essentially a fish farm), a number of parks and the
nearby islands off Rawai Beach (tropical scenery). To get around, consider renting
a jeep or motorcycle (the roads are quite good), or flag down one of the songthaews
(trucks that serve as buses) that constantly ply the route (you'll squeeze in
among locals). If you're visiting November-February, you can watch giant sea turtles
going ashore to lay eggs on Mai Khao Beach. The
beach resorts are about 10 mi/16 km from the town of Phuket (pop. 140,000), which
has a mixture of colonial and Chinese architecture but is really rather ordinary.
Excursions can be made to the Phi Phi Islands, Krabi, Phang Nga Bay and Tham Lod.
Plan to stay three nights in Phuket. 415 mi/670 km south of Bangkok.
Si Chiangmai
Directly across the Mekong River from Vientiane, Laos, this town lies in a region
of interesting villages. They include Nong Khai and Sangkhom (with good hiking
in the area). The ancient Buddhist site of Wat Phra That Bang Phuan lies between
Si Chiangmai and Nong Khai. We think this is one of the most pleasant parts of
Thailand, but if you go, expect simple accommodations. 320 mi/515 km north of
Bangkok. Songkhla
Thailand's third-largest city, Songkhla (pop. 172,604) lies near Songkhla Lake
and a bird sanctuary. The city itself has little to interest visitors, but the
bird sanctuary is worth a half-day trip (go there via boat or canoe). There are
also a number of interesting villages in the region. 460 mi/740 km south of Bangkok.
Sukhothai
Thailand's first capital has the most interesting and varied ruins in the country.
The centerpiece of the town itself is a large monastery. Nearby is a colorful
and fascinating market. Wat Mahathat has an abundance of Buddha images. If you're
not joining an organized tour, catch a songthaew (a truck that serves as a bus)
or hire a cab (be sure to negotiate before getting in) to take you to the ruins.
They're fairly spread out (many are hard to find), so a taxi driver or other guide
is essential. It'll take a full day to see all of the ruins. Bicycle rentals are
available for those who may want to view the ruins at their own pace. There are
more ruins nearby at Si Satchanalai, known for its many stupas and temples. 280
mi/450 km north of Bangkok. Tham
Lod
Tham Lod is an interesting grotto near Phuket with stalactites and
prehistoric drawings. Be sure to have lunch at the nearby Muslim village on stilts,
where the shrimp, lobster and fish are excellent. 30 mi/50 km north of Phuket.
That
Panom
This sleepy Mekong River town in northeast Thailand is seldom visited
by foreign tourists, but it's worth the effort it takes to get there (as the crow
flies, it's not much farther from Bangkok than Udon Thani, but it takes a lot
longer to reach). That Panom is a mecca for Thai pilgrims because the 1,000-year-old
chedi (monument) at the temple contains a fragment of Buddha's breastbone. The
beautiful grounds of the temple, its statues, carvings and the impressive Khmer-style
white-and-gold chedi itself are just part of the reward. Those who get there will
see one of the few corners of Thailand that is (as yet) unspoiled by tourism.
375 mi/600 km northeast of Bangkok. Udon
Thani
Although Udon Thani is relatively undistinguished, 31 mi/50 km east
is the tiny village of Ban Chieng, site of an interesting archaeological dig.
Workers there unearthed a village that may date from 3600 BC. At a simple exhibit
built around the site, you can view bones and artifacts still half-buried. Archaeologists
believe the site contains some of the world's first bronzework. A small museum
contains other artifacts from the dig. It can be seen in about half an hour. 350
mi/560 km northeast of Bangkok. | |
Email : info@ehotelbooking.com Attn : Ms. Polly
