Sukhothai is located on the lower edge of the northern region, 427 kilometres north of Bangkok or some 298 kilometres south of Chiang Mai. The province covers some 6,596 square kilometres and is divided into 9 Amphoes: Mueang Sukhothai, Ban Dan Lan Hoi, Khiri Mat, Kong Krailat, Sawankhalok, Si Nakhon, Si Samrong, Si Satchanalai and Thung Saliam.

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

Sukhothai was the first kingdom of the Thais in this peninsula. Two princes-Pho Khun Pha Mueang and Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao combined their forces and fought the Khmers who commanded an extensive empire throughout this part of the world.

They drove the Khmers out of Sukhothai, a major frontier post of the Khmer Empire, and established it as their capital in 1238. Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao, urged by the people to be king, was enthroned with the royal title of Pho Khun Si Indrathit.

King Si Indrathit had two sons-Pho Khun Ban Mueang and Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng. After his death, Pho Khun Ban Mueang succeeded him. His brother, Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng, ascended the throne in 1278 and reigned for forty years. He was Thailand’s first great king.

One of Thailand’s finest warriors, King Ramkhamhaeng made Sukhothai a powerful and extensive kingdom which included many parts of what are today neighbouring countries. A number of ancient cities paid him tribute.
King Ramkhamhaeng opened direct political relations with China and made two trips to China - the first in 1282 to visit Emperor Kublai Khan and the second in 1300 after Kublai Khan’s death.

From the second visit, he brought back Chinese artisans who taught the Thais the art of pottery. Today, the old “Sangkhalok Potteries” are eagerly sought by collectors.

A major achievement of King Ramkhamhaeng was the revision of various forms of Khmer alphabets into a system suitable for the writing of Thai words. The alphabet that he invented in 1283 was essentially the same as that in use today.
During his reign, there was prosperity and happiness. There was water in the paddy-fields and fish in the water.

A stone inscription reads in part, “This Mueang Sukhothai is good. In the water there are fish; in the field there is rice. The ruler does not levy a tax on the people who travel along the road together, leading their oxen on the way to trade and riding their horses on the way to sell. Whoever wants to trade in elephants, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in horses, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in silver and gold, so trades.”

King Ramkhamhaeng also promoted religion and culture, and through his efforts, Buddhism progressed among the people. Inspirational faith gave birth to classic forms of Thai religious arts. Images of the Lord Buddha sculptured during the Sukhothai Era are cultural treasures which impart a feeling of peace and serenity.

A total of eight kings ruled Sukhothai. The gradual decline of Sukhothai occurred during the reigns of the last two kings. The end of this first Thai kingdom occurred in 1365 when it became a vassal state of Ayutthaya, a young and rising power to the south. Ayutthaya became the capital of Thailand before Thon Buri and Bangkok.

Fish Museum
This is located in the Rama IV Park on the Sukhothai – Phitsanulok route and can be reached by local bus from town. The museum displays a variety of fresh water fish mentioned in Thai literature. It is open daily except Tuesdays from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. There is no admission.

Phra Mae Ya Shrine
This shrine is situated in front of the City Hall and is highly respected by Sukhothai residents. It houses an idol of Phra Mae Ya, a stone figure with a white face and long hair, and dressed as an ancient queen. The idol is about 1 metre high and is supposed to have been built during King Ramkhamhaeng’s reign as a dedication to his late mother Nang Sueang.

Sangkhalok Museum
“Sangkhalok” is the name of ceramic wares produced in the old city of Sukhothai. The museum displays the collection of Sangkhalok and ceramic wares produced some 700 years ago in the Lanna Kingdom (now the northern region of Thailand). The museum is just one kilometre from town on the road to Phitsanulok.

It is open daily from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission is 100 baht for adults and 20 baht for children.

Sukhothai Historical Park
This is located 12 kilometres from town on the Sukhothai-Tak Highway and can be reached by local bus or hired motored tricycle from town. The park is open daily from 8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht. The park also offers tram services as well as bicycles for rent for exploring around its large area. The Tourist Service Centre in the park (Tel: 0 5569 7527, 0 5569 7310) provides information, as well as displays models of historical buildings and structures in old Sukhothai.

Ruins of the royal palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches, ponds, canals, and the water dyke control system, which was the magical and spiritual centre of the kingdom, are now preserved and have been restored by the Fine Arts Department with the cooperation of UNESCO, not only with a view of fostering Thailand’s national identity but of safeguarding a fine example of mankind’s cultural heritage.

Places of interest in Sukhothai Historical Park are as follows:-

Inside the city wall

The city wall is located in the centre of the historical park and surrounded by earthen ramparts. The city has a rectangular shape with 1,300 metres width and 1,800 metres long. The walls contain four main gates. A stone inscription mentions that King Ramkhamhaeng set up a bell at one of the gates. If his subjects needed help, they would ring the bell and the King would come out to settle disputes and dispense justice.

Inside the town stand 35 monuments including Buddhist temples and many other structures.

The Royal Palace and Wat Mahathat
The royal palace lies in the centre of the town and covers an area of 160,000 square metres. This area is surrounded by a moat and contains two main compounds; the royal building and the sanctuary in the palace. In the royal compound exist the ruins of the royal building called Noen Phrasat.
Here, the famous stone inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng was found by King Mongkut (Rama IV) in the 19th century together with a piece of the stone throne called “Manangkhasila-at”. King Ramhamhaeng set up the throne in the midst of a sugar-palm grove where, at his request, a monk preached on Buddhist Sabbath days and the King conducted the affairs of state on other days. This throne was later installed in Bangkok’s Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

A sanctuary lying to the west behind the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat. It is Sukhothai’s largest temple with a customary main chedi in lotus-bud shape and a ruined viharn. At the base of the chedi stands Buddhist disciples in adoration, and on the pedestal are seated Buddha images. In front of this reliquary is a large viharn formerly containing a remarkable seated bronze Buddha image of the Sukhothai style, which was cast and installed by King Lithai of Sukhothai in 1362. At the end of the 18th century, the image was removed to the Viharn Luang of Wat Suthat in Bangkok by the order of King Rama I and has since been named Phra Si Sakaya Muni. In front of the large viharn is another smaller viharn which was probably built during the Ayutthaya period. Its main Buddha image (8 metres high) was installed inside a separate building. In front of the southern image, a piece of sculpture called “Khom Dam Din” (a Khmer who came by way of walking underground) was found, and is now kept in the Mae Ya Shrine near the Sukhothai City Hall. On the south stands a pedestal of a large chedi built up in steps, the lowest platform is adorned with beautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants and lions with angles riding on their backs. Mural painting adorns this chedi.

King Ramkhamhaeng Monument
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat, the bronze statue of King Ramkhamhaeng sits on a throne with bas-relief at the base depicting the King’s life.

Wat Si Sawai
Situated among magnificent scenery southwest of Wat Mahathat is Wat Si Sawai. Three prangs (pagodas) are surrounded by a laterite wall. Inside the wall, the viharn in the west, built of laterite, is separated from the main prang which was constructed in the Lop Buri or Hindu-style, but the other also constructed beside the prangs are Buddhist viharns. The Crown Prince of that time who later become King Rama VI found a trace of the Hindu sculpture Sayomphu, the greatest Hindu God in this sanctuary. In his opinion, this ruin was once a Hindu shrine, but was later converted into a Buddhist monastery.

Wat Traphang-Ngoen
Situated to the west of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang-Ngoen with its square pedestal, main sanctuary, and stucco standing Buddha image in four niches. There is a viharn in front, and in the east of the pond, there is an island with an ubosot. This edifice has already crumbled and only its pedestal and laterite columns still remain. Many monuments and magnificent scenery are visible from this location.

Wat Chana Songkhram
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Chana Songkhram. Its main sanctuary is a round Singhalese-style chedi. In front of the chedi exists the base of a viharn and behind the former stands an ubosot. Bases of twelve small chedis are also visible. Near Charot Withithong Road is a strange chedi having three bases, one on top of the other.

Wat Sa-Si
Situated near Wat Chana Songkhram is Wat Sa Si. Around a Singhalese-style chedi is the main sanctuary on an island in the middle of Traphang Trakuan Pond. A large viharn contains a stucco Buddha image. To the south stands nine chedis of different sizes.

San-Ta-Pha-Daeng or Deity Shrine
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is San Ta Pha Daeng. This monument consists of only one laterite prang with a staircase in the front. Sandstone Hindu divine objects (Lop Buri-style) were discovered here.

Wat Mai
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Mai. Wat Mai, having a brick viharn as the main sanctuary, is in the Ayutthaya style. The columns of the viharn are made of laterite. A bronze image of the Buddha under a Naga (Lop Buri-style statue) was found here and is now preserved in the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.

The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum was built in 1960 and open on 25 January, 1964. The museum collection includes gifts from the ex-abbot of Wat Ratchathani and art objects unearthed in Sukhothai and nearby provinces. It is open daily from 8.30 a.m.-3.30 p.m. Admission is 30 baht. Tel: 0 5569 7367 www.thailandmuseum.com

Wat Traphang Thong
Situated to the east of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang Thong. The monastery is located on an island in the middle of a large pond. A ruined laterite Singhalese-style chedi is on the island. In front of it, a new mondop contains the Lord Buddha’s Footprint slab that was created by King Lithai in 1390 on Samanakut or Phra Bat Yai Hill. This footprint was removed to the new mondop some years ago. An annual fair to worship this sacred Lord Buddha’s Footprint takes place at the same time as the Loi Krathong Festival.

Outside the City Wall

The Sites in the North

Wat Phra Phai Luang
This temple lies about 500 metres north of San Luang Gate (northern gate). This sanctuary, formerly a Khmer-Hindu shrine but later converted into a Buddhist monastery, is surrounded by a moat. It is second in importance to Wat Mahathat. Inside, there are three prangs like Wat Si Sawai, but the southern and the central ones have crumbled leaving only the northern one decorated with stucco figures. In front of these prangs are a viharn and a crumbled chedi; the later has a pedestal decorated with stucco seated Buddha images. A mondop contains Buddha images in four postures; sitting, reclining, standing, and walking. They are now all in ruins. A Sivalinga (Phallic emblem of Hindu gods) was unearthed in the compound of this sanctuary.

Ruins of the Old Celadon Factory (Thuriang Kiln)
Thuriang Kiln is a site where Sukhothai celadons were made. Kilns exist in an area measuring 100 by 700 metres. Each kiln is divided into three sections; the fire area, the pottery baking oven, and the flue. The pottery found here is usually decorated by three different painted designs on their bottom: a disc, a fish, and a flower. Forty-nine kilns and small edifices are visible. To the north, a pond has been dug into the stone.

Wat Si Chum
This lies about 1,500 metres north of Wat Mahathat and was originally surrounded by a moat. A square mondop which is the main sanctuary, contains a monumental stucco-over-brick Buddha image in the attitude of Subduing Mara called “Phra Achana.” This Buddha measures 11.30 metres from knee to knee.
The mondop is 32 metres square and 15 metres high, and the walls are 3 metres thick. There is a passageway in the left inner wall itself which leads to the above crossbeam. On the ceiling of the passageway are more than fifty engraved slate slabs illustrating Jataka scenes.

The sites in the West

Wat Saphan Hin
This is situated on a hill 200 metres high. A pathway of slate slabs leads to the sanctuary yard.

Wat Chang Rop
This is situated in the Aranyik area. A chedi is decorated with an elephant emerging from the base. A viharn base and laterite columns are in front of the Chedi.

Phra-Ruang Dam
This earthwork dam was formed to hold back water between Phra Bat Yai and Kio-Ai-Ma Hills and restored by Thailand’s Irrigation Department. Water from the dam will be used as a reserve whenever the water level in other reservoirs goes down. This dam is referred to in the Sukhothai inscription.

The Site in the South

Wat Chetuphon
A mondop enshrines four Buddha images in different postures: sitting, standing, walking, and reclining. The outer walls of the mondop still retains a section in the form of a slate pillar-balustraded window. There is an entrance to the mondop to the north. Just behind the mondop is a small sanctuary which contains a Buddha image known locally as Phra Si Ariya Maitreya, the Lord Buddha of the Future.

The Sites in the East

Wat Chang Lom
Wat Chang Lom is located to the north of Charot Withithong Road with a bell-shaped chedi of Ceylonese influence standing as the centre. The chedi is situated on a 3-tiered square base with a platform decorated with a row of elephants seen by their front halves supporting the round chedi.

This type of elephant-decorated chedi is to be seen in many ancient towns of the Sukhothai period; for example, Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai.

Wat Traphang Thonglang
A square mondop is the main sanctuary. In front of the mondop to the east, is the viharn and beyond the viharn stands an ubosot. The outer wall of the mondop is beautifully decorated by stucco figures in niches. The southern side portrays the Lord Buddha flanked by angels decending from Tavatimsa Heaven. To the west portrays the Lord Buddha preaching to his father and relatives. The northern side depicts the episode when the Lord Buddha returned to preach to his wife. These stucco figures, especially those on the south side, are masterpieces of Sukhothai art.